Here is a view of the tools I normally use on various small hollow forms. Notice the markings and/or grub screws line up with the centerline of the bit. This is so when I have the tool inside a hollow form I can tell how much of an angle I have at the cutting edge and helps to avoid bringing the tip above center. This is especially important on the right angle tools where you turn the tip up into the cut. For this form, I mainly used the 3/8" set on the left, but I also used the right angle 1/4" tool (far right) to help shape the inside of the upper shoulder).

I start by turning the form between centers using a safety center (also known as a dead cup center). I turn the form as close to final form as possible before moving it to the chuck. This allows me to rough and tweek the design without having to worry about working around the chuck and I can adjust the spigot size as the form changes shape or shrinks due to working around checks and such easily. I also turn the piece so that the tenon is at the headstock side so I am not flipping the piece around to mount in the chuck. You stand a better chance of it running true after the transition doing it this way.

Once the desired form is achieved, mount in the chuck and remove the remnant of the tailstock end. True the form up and make your final cut on the outside. Notice the large section I left at the foot section for strength during hollowing. This will be trimmed up later to fit the form. At this point, I sand the outside to 400 grit. This will eliminate the need to sand as much later which could put undue pressure on the hollowed form and possibly break it.

The next photo illustrates many of the points outlined above as well as those to come...just thought I'd mention it. You can see here the meatier foot section left for strength while hollowing. The depth is drilled (blue lines) and from there we would start by opening up the top area with a straight bit tool. Once the inside is opened up enough, we can start using a angled tool to work the top and transition into the shoulders. Make sure to go down to your desired thickness about an inch at a time, opening up a bit more, thinning the wall, then opening up again. Take wall thickness readings with your calipers often to make sure you don't accidentally cut through the wall and end up with a bowl. The reason for this progression is once a form has a thin enough wall you cannot go back. If you attempt to go behind where you last cut to true up a bump or something your risk of ripping the section behind the cut dramatically increases as there will not be enough wall to withstand the bite of the hollowing bit. Progress down the form (black lines) until you reach the depth you drilled earlier.

Here's a bit about tool angle. By the photo to the right, you'll see that you want to keep the tool angled down, but with the tip at the center line. This will mean adjusting the tool rest up a bit. The angle doesn't have to be steep at all, just a slight downward angle. Also, keep the cutting edge of the tip at the center line. If you go above center line you run the risk of a bad catch. When cutting above center a catch will send the tool deeper into the piece. Cutting at center will throw the tip into open space below and avoid complicating the catch and make it easier to recover and keep turning. You'll need a compressor or a can of compressed air to help clear the shavings. If neither is available, a coat hanger straightened out with a small hook at the end also makes a good tool to pull the shavings out.

After the shavings are cleared from the inside, take a minute to check the thickness and finish on the inside. With a opening this small, it is more important that good tool control is used to obtain a nice even finish on the inside as you can not get sanding materials in there easily. Using calipers or bent wire to check thickness, make sure the wall thickness is as even as possible throughout. This will affect the feel of the piece once it's finished; form as well as balance is important as people will want to pick these up and no matter how good the form, an unbalanced piece can change someone's mind about whether they like it or not.

click photo to enlarge